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WORLD MARKETSNothing
holds more mystery than a local market. The place where
folks come together to buy and sell the stuff of everyday
life tells more than a hundred books about a foreign
place. Yet there's also a remarkable consistency to
markets around the world.
In many ways, the market in
Chichicastenango, Guatemala could just as easily be in
Chiang Mai, Thailand or Kathmandu, Nepal: the same rows
of vegetables spread on tarps on the ground; the same
prolonged examination and haggling over a few potatoes;
the same vibrant colors and earthy smells. The exchange
is intimate, providing a personal knowledge of the items
purchased, and binding the community through gossip and
news of family and events.
The market is a micro economy, with
multiple tiny exchanges, and vendors willing to travel
many uncomfortable hours on a rickety bus to sell only a
basket full of wares. This market income may be the only
source of hard cash for many subsistence farmers, well
worth the three hour journey to earn perhaps eight
dollars, selling woodcarvings and greens.
Chichicastenango is the quintessential
market town, embodying the color, spectacle and vibrance
of native markets around the world. By 8pm the evening
before market, the city is an encampment of roving
merchants, erecting portable pole constructions and
hanging out their wares. The food tents are already in
full operation, with brightly clad, Mayan women grilling
tortillas on oil drum cookers, gas lights hissing, and
flies buzzing over blue enamel pots filled with beans and
chicken.
By morning the market is in full swing:
chickens and pigs screaming from
cages, overfull baskets of greens suspended from the
foreheads of gnarly-legged farmers, rows of densely woven
red huipiles drawing crowds of ribbon- haired women,
babies in shawls, handmade leather shoes sold next to
plastic ones, homemade cheese bundled in corn husks, the
sickly sweet smell of a hundred different fruits, smoke
from cooking fires, tourist stalls in a circle on the
periphery. And now, to bargain!
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