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Textiles and TraditionThe archipelago of Indonesia offers perhaps the
greatest diversity of
traditional textiles in the world, each island having its
own distinctive
tradition. Some of these styles date back 2,000 years,
many of them
influenced by Indian and Chinese textile designs.
Colonial rule brought new influences, introducing
patterns from coins and porcelain.
As in cultures throughout the world,
spinning, dyeing and weaving in
Indonesia are symbolic of the creative process and of
birth, and are
predominantly women's activities. Looms are threaded on
auspicious days, and a finished textile has power to
protect its weaver as well as possessing
ritual significance. Among the Batak people of Sumatra,
women weave on
circular warps that are never cut in order to assure the
continuity of life.
Commonly, hanging a textile marks a special space or even
makes a space
sacred. The textiles from southern and central Sumatra
are marked by busy use of applied ornamentation, a
dramatic sense of color, and echoes of Chinese motifs.
A southern Chinese sensibility shines
through, too, in beadwork from Jambi province. Densely
beaded baskets and bags, often incorporating hammered
gold, use the intense colors and distinctive symbolic
shapes of Chinese temple art, but the rugged forms are
distinctly Indonesian. Mingei acquired some stunning
beaded offering baskets, as well as hanging temple
ornaments.
The best known Indonesian textiles are
the batiks from Java and the ikat
weaves of Flores. Mingei has a number of old copper batik
stamps coming from Solo, or Surakarta, the batik center
of Central Java. We also have a number of antique ikat
sarongs from Flores. This resist-dyeing process, in which
designs are created by tyeing off warp or weft threads
before dyeing, used to take 8-10 years to create, using
complex natural dyes, traditionally in indigo, reds and
browns.
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